Friday, July 6, 2018

June 22 - Alaska Day 3 - Arctic Day 1 - The Arctic Adventure Begins

I'm sitting here writing this with a west wind blowing into my face at our base camp on the south side of the Sadlerochit Mountains (69 34.160 N 145 34.907 W) in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. (Though that location, according to the GPS finder, puts us right in the middle of the mountains. I think we're more around 69.571329 -145.586925)


I'm so excited to be here. Our camp is in what I will call a meadow but its really just tundra flat (not sure of the proper terminology). Not far to the north there's a long hill stretching east-west. In the distance behind are the Sadlerochit Mts. I'm not sure what lies between hill and the mountains but I image its another valley.

To the south is a river, then about 10 feet above the river is another flat "meadow" eventually leading to more mountains.

My camp is in the middle of those two mountains ranges - ie. valley

There are also a few hills in the valley that are curiously orange; they seem so out-of-place in the landscape. There's one to the east about 3/4 miles and the larger ones are to the west maybe 1/2 mile. Hoping we will explore this week.


We've been told Spring is a little late to the Arctic this year. Never being here I have nothing to compare to but there are still many flowers out there!

(And I'm hoping the 80 degree temperatures in Fairbanks means we won't be seeing snow or really cold weather. Right now, it's a bit cool but there's a storm coming tonight - we'll see what happens.)

But to this morning, the trip started for me with a 6:30am pickup at the hotel. (I'm the 2nd person in the van.) The 2 others are picked up at the airport and we head to smaller airport to wait for our flights into the Arctic.

It's cloudy and drizzly in the Fairbanks area.

There are 2 flights. Three people (including myself) are heading out on a Helio plane straight to our base camp site (about a 3 hour flight). The other 2 people are flying to Arctic Village (about an 1.5 hour flight) and will wait there until our plane returns to Arctic Village to pick them up.

The Arctic Village plane leaves a bit after 8am. We don't leave until after 9am.

I've been on small 6 seater planes (this one has only 4) before without issue but the bumpiness at our low flying elevation (it's a scenic flight) is a bit let's say unsettling for some reason. But it's definitely worth it to see the landscape and hopefully some animals.

Outside Fairbanks, the landscape is green with trees and many, many small ponds.  The pilot spots one moose below and a bit later another - both of which I see.

The landscape totally changes after Arctic Village (and entering the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge) as we enter the Brooks Range (a range of mountains stretching west-east for 700 miles) - and thankfully the turbulence too! The trees are gone and we're in the mountains. So awesome to fly near these massive bare rock mountains as we follow the Canning River below. But the snowy peaks are in the distance.



At one point, the pilot points out a couple of herds of Dall's Sheep.

When we're about a 1/2 hour from our destination, we start seeing caribou below. (I think he described them as individual pieces of brown rice. Not the huge migration herd just smaller ones. Very cool to see!

Not far from one of these caribou herds is a grizzly bear. As we approach, the bear does not run. He's just tracks our plane as we fly by. Pretty amazing!

A little farther along, I see 2 grizzlies below running. One is blond color while the other is a "normal" brown color. Awesome!

Before long, the pilot starts scouting the landing strip for our base camp. I can't believe this is where I'll be staying! There are caribou down near the runway. They run as we pass low to the ground. Pretty incredible to see them running from my window!

We land safely (yea)! Very happy to be on the ground (especially my stomach)!

It's partly sunny here but clouds are moving in.

After we land and unload the plane, it's time to setup up our camp while we await the arrival of the final two folks coming in about 2 hours.

During that time, I see my first of many Alpine butterflies a Banded Alpine (Erebia Fasciata)!

This guy is a true northern species; it does not fly in the lower 48. These are the butterflies I'm really hoping to see. From the info I have, it's host plant is unconfirmed and it takes 2 years to complete it's life cycle. Lucky I picked the "right" year!!

And there are so many so flowers!! The pink ones really stand out like this Lapland Rosebay. (It's a species of Rhododendron.)


And Moss Campion.

But there are Arctic Lupine, .....

Once camp is setup, me and the other guest head north to the hill walking mostly open ground, through some willows, over a tiny creek and finally up the hill.  Lots of lupine and phlox on the way up. I also see some blue butterflies flying.

When we get to the top, we are staring at a small herd of caribou. I'm not a good judge of distance but perhaps 30 yards. Many are laying when we arrive. But then they stand very aware of us.

We move slowly forward and they spook and run off. We walk after them but they continue east. Time to head back. As we do, we hear/see the airplane coming with the final 2 people (a couple) of our trip.

Oh, there's an Old World Swallowtail!!

Once camp is setup, we get the camp introduction and our bear sprays (which will be our constant companions for the next few days).

Afterwards, I go check out the creek behind our camp - I can hear it from my tent.

I decide to head back to camp when I get distracted by a Fritillary and don't realize the group has left on a hike. Thankfully, I do get a good look at him and at this point I believe he is a Freija Frit (Confirmed by BOAMA - Boloria Freija).

and I get a wake-up call as they pass and I catch up with the group.

The plan is to head towards the Katakturak River valley to the northwest. We want to see down into the river valley.

On the way, I see a White-veined Arctic (Oeneis bore)! He does fly in isolated high elevation mountains spots in WY, UT and CO. I've seen him in CO.


We also see a Golden Crowned Plover.


Hey, I find an Eagle's feather (most likely a Golden Eagle).

Definitely getting a sense of how small we really are in the vast landscape.


As I climb another hill, I turn around to find that there are Caribou crossing where we just walked. Incredible!!

And they keep coming from the west even crossing some snow!

Finally we get to the final hill top with the river valley in view. I like!


Time to head back to camp.

There's supposed to be a storm tonight. And it's coming as there is a cloud bank is now streaming in from the north forming a "skinny" blanket covering the landscape. It's looks awesome. But there's also still blue sky to the north.

Keeping fingers crossed that the storm will be a miss.

Butterflies:
- Unknown Blue
- Banded Alpine (Lifer)
- White Veined Arctic
- Freija Frit (Lifer)