June 27 - Alaska Day 8 - Final Around Fairbanks

Today is a free day in Fairbanks as my flight is the red-eye at 1:30 am on Thursday. What to do, what to do.

It's definitely a lazy morning and I finally take off around 10:30 am for my second attempt at Murphy Dome - I believe I'm much smarter than GoogleMaps this time.

The drive down the paved road is uneventful other than the small red pickup truck that's on its side in a ditch.

There are still Canadian Swallowtail flying but not a great numbers.

Soon I reach the dirt road. It's actually very smooth (much better shape that one of my butterfly roads in UT) but it's a bit slick from last night's rain.

Several miles later, I reach Murphy Dome.

I'm not sure where I can park so I head up to the gated facility. The gate is open but a posted sign indicates Air Force property and entrance is forbidden so I head back down the road where I saw another car parked.

I walk back up to the Dome on a trail (not the road). Seeing many big Darner dragonflies,

a Blue butterfly and several moths as well - a tiny orange one and a larger black/white pattern one.

There are many dandelions blooming and only a few smaller flowers. Much of the landscape is some small tree/shrub.

I'm hearing a few different bird songs but can't track down any of them.

I reach the Dome and head left. There's a higher spot I want to check out but I pass by for now to check-out a building on the far side.

As I near I see these wonderful purple flowers (Jacob's Ladder I believe)

and some yellow daisy-like flowers.

While I'm checking out the yellow flowers, I hear a flapping noise in the air. I look and see two Old World Swallowtails swirling in battle -- low at first and then high into the air before they finally break-up.

I then follow a road around the other side of the high spot. There is a car parked in the road with 2 people in it. Not sure what they are doing and I didn't knock on the window to ask.

Seeing many Old World Swallowtails on the way to the top that high spot but nothing else. I'm wondering where all the butterflies are. I know of two people who were here before and they found some "northern" flyers. Perhaps it's the prolonged cool weather in Fairbanks.

Oh well, the views are pretty nice!

I head down the other side of the high spot and start slightly down hill past that white building. The landscape is different here - dry but extremely spongy. There are a few lupine blooming and this white flower which I think is Labrador Tea.

I only see a couple of Canadian and Old World Swallowtails flying.

I'm about ready to turn around when I get so lucky -- there's a Alpine flying and he actually lands.

It's a Banded Alpine!!

I also see an Arctic White.

Encouraged, I wander a bit longer

before heading back to my car.

Not as many butterflies as I was hoping to see but still a very successful trip.

On the drive down, there are so many dragonflies flying along/across the dirt road. Never have seen so many! Pretty incredible!!

After a quick lunch, I head over to the Large Animal Research Station at the University of Fairbanks and get  there with perfect timing for a 2pm tour.

As I wait, I can hear the baby Musk Ox crying. (cool)

The tour is about 1 hour long talking about both the Musk Ox, Reindeer, and Caribou. There are no Caribou on site anymore - only the Musk Ox and Reindeer.

Fun to see the 6+ baby Musk Ox in a pen with one female with her baby. In the wild, all of the babies would still be with their mothers but they separate them here so they get used to humans and are easier manage when they grow up (and get big).

Good stop!

After the LARS visit, I was originally planning on going to the Museum on campus but I'm pretty tired so it just time to wait for flight.

Incredible trip from Fairbanks to Arctic and back to Fairbanks!! So glad I came!

Butterfly count:

- Arctic White (Fairbanks and Arctic)
- Banded Alpine (Fairbanks and Arctic -- Lifer)
- Lafontaine's Alpine (Arctic - Lifer)
- Disa Alpine (Arctic - Lifer)
- Common Alpine (Fairbanks)
- White Veined Arctic (Arctic)
- Western Tailed Blue (Arctic)
- Silvery Blue (Arctic)
- Freija Frit (Arctic -- Lifer)
- Polaris Frit (Arctic -- Lifer)
- Arctic Frit (Arctic --  Lifer)
- Booth's Sulphur (Arctic -- Lifer)
- Canadian Swallowtail (Fairbanks)
- Old World Swallowtail (Fairbanks and Arctic)
- Green Comma (Fairbanks)
- Large Marble (Fairbanks)

June 26 - Alaska Day 7 - Arctic Day 5 - Sadly, the last day in the Arctic

The strong wind that had us hunkered down behind the kitchen tent last night finally died down sometime after 1:30 am. It's so nice in the tent now. It's the first time I'm actually not cocoon'd up in my mummy sleeping bag. The bag's hood is down and it's actually unzipped! What an awesome start the "fly-out" day!

Outside the tent it is sunny and calm. There's caribou visible to the south and it's great to have breakfast outdoors again.

After breakfast, it's time to pack as the first 3 folks head out around 10:30 am. They are going to Arctic Village to wait for the afternoon flight back to Fairbanks. I'm on the 2nd flight leaving once the pilot returns back from Arctic Village in around 2 hours.

As we wait, there's a breeze building from the west. Enough of a breeze that our guide brings out her  kite (one with handles for steering) and attempts to fly it.  Unfortunately, there's not enough breeze to really keep it in the air but she does a great job in trying.

I take a butterfly walk to check out what might be up this morning - actually hoping to find that Sulphur I saw yesterday.

Finding the usual Alpines, Old World Swallowtails, Silvery Blues, Arctic White and Frits. But surprise, I find a Sulphur!!! What a great closing for the trip! I'm thinking Booth's Sulphur. (Northern species - unknown host plant) (Confirmed by BOAMA as Colias Tyche - Booth's Sulphur)

Soon the buzz of the Helio coming over the mountains can be heard. The plane is packed, people boarded and off it goes.

The trip is not over for me yet. I help pack the remaining camp gear and haul it down to where the plane will pick me and the guide up. Once that is done, it's just a waiting game.

I decide to take a walk around the meadow again - no camera, just looking and soaking in the landscape, examining the several caribou skeletons wondering how/why the animals died. Was it because of a wolf, a hunter (I did find a bullet shell earlier), sickness, old age - all part of the cycle of life.

A few more bflies are out now and on the south side of the meadow, I find another Sulphur (wish I had my camera now). I work my way back to the loading area as the plane, if on time, should be arriving in about 20 minutes. But no plane.

So I take yet another walk across meadow and then east. I don't get very far when I hear the buzz of my ride out of the Arctic.

The pilot has to refuel the plane with what he unloaded on the first flight. It's take time as he has to hand pump it into the plane. During the process the wind changes from a westerly wind to an easterly wind. The pilot wasn't too happy about the wind change (take-off reasons I guess) and tied some pink flags along the runway to help with take-off. Fortunately, we had no issues and off we went. My time in the Arctic is complete - what an incredible journey!

But the ride back to Fairbanks has just begun.

I'm in the front seat of the plane as we fly the Brooks Range. I can see the coastal plane, a frozen lake and unending snowy mountains.

Truly rugged and beautiful. Hard to image that caribou migrate through them. Wow!

As we fly along the pilot points out a location where herds of Mom & baby Dall Sheep hang out. At first, we don't see any but I do find them running under our plane. There's another smaller herd not too far away.

Our non-stop flight to Fairbanks ended up stopping at a landing strip along the Canning River for equipment check.

On our take-off, the pilot spots a grizzly. He circles but we can't find him. So onward we go towards Arctic Village to refuel again. As we near the Village, the pilot goes a little out of the way to point out an old caribou fence. It was used a long time ago to assist locals in their caribou hunts funneling the animals so they can be easily killed. The fence is obviously not used anymore but it's remains can still be seen if one looks hard enough.

We then land in Arctic Village, fuel up and are back up in the air. Soon we are in Fairbanks again. The trip is now sadly over.

It was an incredible experience - the vastness of the landscape, the flowers, the butterflies, the diversity of the landscape (tundra, ridges, scree, tussocks, wet, river valleys),  and the curious but very cautious caribou around. I have to admit, despite those darn river crossings, my favorite hike/place was the river valley.

So happy I got the nerve to finally have the Arctic experience. I so wish I had done this years ago but it all worked out because if I had gone years ago, I wouldn't have had THIS experience.

June 25 - Alaska Day 6 - Arctic Day 4 Wander Day

Super sunny this morning and a bit warm when the wind isn't blowing.

Find this White-veined Arctic hanging around the kitchen area this morning.

I want to hike but not really interested in a long one today (but I really should see everything possible as I came all this way). I decide to just wander closer to camp today. And I have company, two others are also hanging back as well.

The first outing of the day is back north over the hill, across the flat to the other ridge to look down in the valley for caribou (and hopefully a bear). I'm with one other person. 

On the way to there, we see Alpines, Frits (I believe to be Polaris Frit)

and the local Plover who by now is probably wishing the humans would just go away.

Looking down from the ridge into the valley, there are many caribou in various herds. Unfortunately, they are all in the distance to the east, west and along river. Still an excellent stop to sit and watch.

As we sit, I see several Old World Swallowtail fly up from the rocks below, over the ridge and past us.

After a bit, we move east trying to get closer to the caribou below locating what I think is a Disa Alpine. (Confirmed by BOAMA as Erebia disa)  (Northern species only, grasses/sedges are the thought to be host plants. Lifer!)

Then we cross back south over the flats to a downhill view where we're camped. (View looking east toward the smaller orange hill.)

 There's also a herd of caribou in view to the east.

On the way down hill, I see my first Sulphur of the trip - very exciting! Unfortunately, it's just a fly-by sighting. (I also see an Arctic White.)

Down off the hill, we starting heading towards camp and to our surprise, two caribou run right past us -- we honestly didn't see them coming. I'm not sure what they were doing but it appeared to be a scouting mission because after they passed, they circle around in the back of us and back up the valley. Very strange but incredibly cool!

After lunch, I another take a butterfly walk around camp in which I find more Silvery Blue (this one basking in the sun,

and 2 more flying Sulphurs. (They just don't want to have their pictures taken today.) I also find another Frit that looks totally different (paler) than anything I've seen so far - very exciting! I'm confused by these one. Could be Polaris or Mountain - work in progress. (Confirmed by BOAMA as Boloria Polaris)

After a bit of a rest, I decide to take a walk down the river in back of camp. I investigated a bit on the first day but it's time to do it again.

View west behind camp.

View east.

View south.

The branching of the river puts me back on land where I can see two caribou ahead of me. I should really stick to the river to get close but decide to approach directly as I have a bit of cover from the brush, the noise of the river and a strong wind are in my favor. At least I think, but it isn't long before I'm noticed. I sit on the ground hoping he'll settle and but both of them take off across the river, up the slope and away.

So I loop around to the other side of the valley. Nothing much flying due to the wind. But I find Shooting Star for the first time.

And surprise, I kick up a Blue!!! His flying is erratic because of the wind (very hard to track him) but he does land protecting himself between blades of vegetation. It's a Western Tailed Blue - I can see his tail!! The first of the trip! (The WTB is also found in the lower 48.)

Strong cool wind has us using the kitchen tent for a wind block. That lone caribou comes for a visit. He's on the other side of our valley (near the hill) but he is definitely curious of us.

That's a wrap for my last full day.

Butterflies

Silvery Blue
Western Tailed Blue
Old World Swallowtail
Disa Alpine
Arctic White
Polaris Frit
Unknown Sulphur

June 24 - Alaska Day 5 - Arctic Day 3 - Katakturak River Valley

Weird things happening last night.

First, in the middle of the night, I hear tapping outside my tent. It's not moving towards or away from my tent. It's just there and at very steady rate. I know that caribou make a clicking sound when walking. (Still waiting to actually hear it.) Could there be one outside my tent? Well, I convince myself that since it's not moving and it's steady that it's not a caribou and go back to sleep.

At little while later I wake again. The clicking sound has stopped and now I hear chewing, the ripping of vegetation outside my tent. Again it's not moving. I'm so wanting to open my tent to peek but I convince myself that it's probably just a ground squirrel and go back to sleep.

How close in time was the clicking and chewing sounds, I have no idea. I don't even know how soon after both events that I actually leave my tent for the morning. All I know is when I look out, there's a large male caribou maybe less than 100 yards east of my tent. Ugh! Why didn't I just look?!

There's others with him.

But sky is clear and blue! Setting up to be an awesome day.

Even the butterflies are out basking in the early morning sun. This is a new guy for the week (and a lifer for me) - yea! I believe this is a Young's Alpine (Confirmed by BOAMA as Lafontaine's Alpine or Reddish Alpine (Erebia lafontainei)! (At the time, I was thinking this was just the upper side of the Banded Alpine. If I had known, I would have tried to find him again for an lower side view.) [

And another Lafontaine's Alpine with a little different upper side!

The Silvery Blues are around too as are the ground squirrels.

Active sunny day in the Arctic!

After breakfast, we all set off for the Katakturak River Valley which we saw the very first evening. As we go, there appears to be a dead caribou ahead. Two guys in the group are getting very close when finally the animal move - awesome! But he doesn't run at first, very strange. There has to be something wrong because 1) he's alone 2) he didn't move until people were almost on top of him and 3) he's in no hurry to leave. He appears to be moving okay as he slowly move off.

I'm see Arctic Whites and Old World Swallowtails flying!

And we continue up the hill.

Along the way, I find this odd plant. Perhaps a Lagotis (aka Weaselsnout).

We reach the top of the hill and start down through the rocks, over snow and through the wet vegetation to the valley.

The river winds and branches which leads to numerous river crossings.

Some I just slosh across, some are a little deeper - really not comfortable with this but I do want see what's ahead. We finally get to a deeper (over the boots) crossing - definitely not what I wanted to see. Everyone is one the other side when I start to cross. I'm scared - I've never crossed water before and I don't swim (and I don't want to ruin everyone's day by getting soaked). I'm really not sure how far I get, but I panic and go back. I'm done, I'm not doing this.

I tell the guide to go on but she's not having it. She crosses back over and tells me exactly how we're going to cross. I'm really not quite sure what happened next but without me ever saying a word and without hesitation I find myself crossing the water. How'd that happened? Did I really just place my trust in someone I barely know without even thinking about it? Not a normal thing for me. Must have either been a mini miracle or something in the Arctic air but I'd like to bottle that and take it home with me. But the reality is that I did trust and I did make it safely across.

There's a quote that I like by David McCullough.

"Climb the mountain not to plant your flag, but to embrace the challenge, enjoy the air, and behold the world. Climb it so you can see the world, not so the world can see you."

Well, for me today, that "mountain" to climb is those darn river crossings. But I face my fear and trust and accept help and guess what, a whole wonderful world is there to see. (And a world that probably not many people have seen before or will ever see for that matter.)

The little water falls.

Awesome views

Caribou tracks

Grizzly tracks (no we didn't actually the bear)

And of course, more butterflies

Arctic White

 (Confirmed by BOAMA as Boloria chariclea or Arctic Frit)

Eventually we stop at an awesome spot above the river for a snack.

It turns out to be a tiny butterfly hot spot especially for Silvery Blues and more Freija Frits (Confirmed by BOAMA as Boloria Freija).

After our snack we continue down the rocky valley (and over some snow). The river crossings are less now (happiness).

I can see a hill ahead that looks like a dam. I think that's our destination as our goal is to get down the valley and then high enough to see the coastal plane

We pass another waterfall, cross a patch of snow and then there's yet another crossing. Ugh! It looks deeper than our other crossings. My "mountain" has reached its peak, I'm done. But as it turns out, no one goes across. A couple people decide to climb the mountain slope high enough to see the coastal plain and they succeed.

Now it's time to head home.

We stop once again at the prior snack/butterfly hot spot and the butterlfies are still flying. The Silvery Blues are even landing on water logged socks for a sip of water.

And after more snacks, we're off once again.

Instead of returning the way we came, we continue to follow the river valley until we can turn into our valley and head back to camp.

 Along the way, we see Ptarmigan.

A few butterflies (I believe this is a Polaris Frit.) (Confirmed by BOAMA as Boloria Polaris - Polaris Frit.)

And the lone Caribou from earlier in the day..

I close by seeing a White Veined Arctic in camp.

Despite the river crossings, what an incredible day! Yes, I said that - not sure many would believe that. I'm so happy to face a fear - definitely not conquer it but push through it by trusting and accepting a helping hand. (Not an easy thing for me). And very thankful for the people who offered.

Butterflies
  Arctic White
  Old World Swallowtail
  Freija Frit
  Polaris Frit
  Arctic Frit
  Lafontaine's Alpine
   White Veined Arctic